The last couple of days have been a mixture, to say the least. We are now in Italy, in a nice shady camping spot near the Cinque Terre – these are 5 villages built close together along the coast, they are very beautiful and the coastal walk linking them is very popular. But before all this peace and tranquillity we had to get here!
We decided to ‘miss’ the Cote d’Azur more or less by taking the motorway, mainly a decision based on driving time and nowhere to park the Enterprise on the way. So we only got glimpses of the big boys’ toys – like this.
And the motorway was pretty free running most of the way. There were hardly any trucks on the road, they all seem to park up in the rest areas on a Sunday, everything is shut; even the supermarkets in the big cities. We saw some interesting looking markets along the way (before the motorway) but once again the possibility of safely parking the Enterprise with SO MANY people and cars everywhere was slim. As we got close to Genoa (where we had intended to stop) the motorway really started to jam up. Mostly because of 3(!) separate accidents. We could see the alternative road every now and then though and that looked a lot worse. After we were well past Genoa we thought we’d better get off the motorway and look for a campsite, big mistake! It was the most frightening traffic either of us has ever seen!! The Italian drivers obviously have no fears – like a huge game of dodgem on a very narrow windy road – crowds of very pushy motorcyclists and scooter riders coming from all directions – seem to have no conception of their own safety at all... So we got back on the motorway. Problem was it was now getting pretty late and we still had nowhere to camp and poor Gus was exhausted from his numerous close brushes – so we decided we’d have to stop in one of the truck stops – next to the motorway. Surprisingly we did manage to get some sleep – Gus got more than me because he was so shattered from driving – and in the morning we found our way to the Cinque Terre. Still narrow windy roads but nowhere near the traffic!!
Since we were tired (and it is very hot!) we just walked from one village to the next and back, only took about 10 minutes between villages, very beautiful, the sea is sparkling and god only knows how the villages cling to the hillsides.
We’re also fascinated with the amount of terracing and cultivation on the steep hillsides; and the size of the trucks. You can understand why they have to be so small when you see the miniscule lanes they fit down – there would be about 3cm each side sometimes! But aren’t they cute with their 3 wheels, they remind me of a 3-legged dog we once owned. Then this afternoon we had a siesta. Tomorrow we plan to do the other 3 villages – we’ll get the train to the far end and walk back.
What a contrast in walks! We caught the train to the second village from this end, Vernazza, as Corniglia is cut off from this end too. Apparently you can get through but it’s ‘difficult’ so being a complete chicken about scrambling over rocks high above the sea, we decided we’d just have to miss the middle village. This walk was over much rougher terrain and quite narrow and scary in places – I had to cling onto Gus hand for those bits. It didn’t help that we’d come prepared for a walk like yesterday (a paved path) and found that today’s walk was more like a tramping track, I had my pretty red sandals and sundress on, not good tramping gear!! The walk was also a good 2 hours compared to yesterday’s 10 minutes, really nice walk though with stunning views, when I wasn’t too scared to peak... Soon after we started we met a NZ couple, and had a good long chat comparing travel adventures. Then as we got to about 2/3 of the way through I heard a woman saying to her husband that they really should have checked with information about the track, as they weren’t prepared at all – she clearly had a kiwi accent so I said “I was just thinking the same thing!” They had done the same walk the day before as us and also had no reason to believe this one was any different. We stopped and swapped travel stories with them too – it turned out he was a farmer from the South Island and so Gus and he quickly got onto farming – I couldn’t believe they were standing in the Cinque Terre discussing lamb prices!! We also said gidday (Gus said Kia Ora and Haere Ra) to at least 3 other kiwis in passing; and there were plenty of Aussies too – so if you’re ever in Europe and want to meet other kiwis, go to the Cinque Terre (the difficult bit). We’ve only met one other on the entire trip to date.
After all that we decided to get on the road towards Rome as we still have a fair bit of ground to cover. We were going to stop at Pisa but decided we couldn’t be bothered negotiating a city just to see one landmark, especially as it will probably look exactly like its photos. As we were driving to our camping spot (a freebie on the Italian equivalent of the France Passion scheme) I said to Gus that the landscape reminded me of photos I’d seen of Tuscany. He said “Well where is Tuscany?”. So I looked it up and we were right in it – well spotted that tourist! My only excuses are that they spell it Toscana here; and we were navigating by town names rather than areas – I guess a tourist in Napier may not realise they were also in Hawkes Bay?? Anyway the landscape is very Tuscany – lots of rolling tanned hills with big houses on top, and cedar lined driveways, also many olive groves and vineyards. There are lots of road signs about snow, we can’t believe it snows here, it is SO hot!
This morning I woke up to a revelation – we don’t have to go to Rome if we don’t want to. We have been heading that way, luckily only yesterday but realised we were both rather dreading it. The farming couple we talked to had just been there and they made it sound pretty awful with the heat which is already bad enough, and the crowds – more an endurance test than enjoyment. Also we really would be pushing for time by the time we drove down there and back up to Bologna for our flight to Malta. One day we really do want to go to Rome – but we’ll make it a cooler time of year, and perhaps fly in and join a tour group, or hire a car to do the Amalfi Coast at the same time... one day.
Anyway with that decision we both feel much relieved and have decided to check out Florence instead and then head inland to Umbria and possibly across to the east coast – quieter places where the pace of life may suit us better – still plenty to see I’m sure. So after only 1 ½ hour’s drive we are at a lovely shady campground outside Florence. Gus is hard at it – and I’m writing up the blog – tomorrow we’ll see Florence.
The last couple of days have been a mixture, to say the least. We are now in Italy, in a nice shady camping spot near the Cinque Terre – these are 5 villages built close together along the coast, they are very beautiful and the coastal walk linking them is very popular. But before all this peace and tranquillity we had to get here!
We decided to ‘miss’ the Cote d’Azur more or less by taking the motorway, mainly a decision based on driving time and nowhere to park the Enterprise on the way. So we only got glimpses of the big boys’ toys – like this.
And the motorway was pretty free running most of the way. There were hardly any trucks on the road, they all seem to park up in the rest areas on a Sunday, everything is shut; even the supermarkets in the big cities. We saw some interesting looking markets along the way (before the motorway) but once again the possibility of safely parking the Enterprise with SO MANY people and cars everywhere was slim. As we got close to Genoa (where we had intended to stop) the motorway really started to jam up. Mostly because of 3(!) separate accidents. We could see the alternative road every now and then though and that looked a lot worse. After we were well past Genoa we thought we’d better get off the motorway and look for a campsite, big mistake! It was the most frightening traffic either of us has ever seen!! The Italian drivers obviously have no fears – like a huge game of dodgem on a very narrow windy road – crowds of very pushy motorcyclists and scooter riders coming from all directions – seem to have no conception of their own safety at all... So we got back on the motorway. Problem was it was now getting pretty late and we still had nowhere to camp and poor Gus was exhausted from his numerous close brushes – so we decided we’d have to stop in one of the truck stops – next to the motorway. Surprisingly we did manage to get some sleep – Gus got more than me because he was so shattered from driving – and in the morning we found our way to the Cinque Terre. Still narrow windy roads but nowhere near the traffic!!
Since we were tired (and it is very hot!) we just walked from one village to the next and back, only took about 10 minutes between villages, very beautiful, the sea is sparkling and god only knows how the villages cling to the hillsides.
We’re also fascinated with the amount of terracing and cultivation on the steep hillsides; and the size of the trucks. You can understand why they have to be so small when you see the miniscule lanes they fit down – there would be about 3cm each side sometimes! But aren’t they cute with their 3 wheels, they remind me of a 3-legged dog we once owned. Then this afternoon we had a siesta. Tomorrow we plan to do the other 3 villages – we’ll get the train to the far end and walk back.
What a contrast in walks! We caught the train to the second village from this end, Vernazza, as Corniglia is cut off from this end too. Apparently you can get through but it’s ‘difficult’ so being a complete chicken about scrambling over rocks high above the sea, we decided we’d just have to miss the middle village. This walk was over much rougher terrain and quite narrow and scary in places – I had to cling onto Gus hand for those bits. It didn’t help that we’d come prepared for a walk like yesterday (a paved path) and found that today’s walk was more like a tramping track, I had my pretty red sandals and sundress on, not good tramping gear!! The walk was also a good 2 hours compared to yesterday’s 10 minutes, really nice walk though with stunning views, when I wasn’t too scared to peak... Soon after we started we met a NZ couple, and had a good long chat comparing travel adventures. Then as we got to about 2/3 of the way through I heard a woman saying to her husband that they really should have checked with information about the track, as they weren’t prepared at all – she clearly had a kiwi accent so I said “I was just thinking the same thing!” They had done the same walk the day before as us and also had no reason to believe this one was any different. We stopped and swapped travel stories with them too – it turned out he was a farmer from the South Island and so Gus and he quickly got onto farming – I couldn’t believe they were standing in the Cinque Terre discussing lamb prices!! We also said gidday (Gus said Kia Ora and Haere Ra) to at least 3 other kiwis in passing; and there were plenty of Aussies too – so if you’re ever in Europe and want to meet other kiwis, go to the Cinque Terre (the difficult bit). We’ve only met one other on the entire trip to date.
After all that we decided to get on the road towards Rome as we still have a fair bit of ground to cover. We were going to stop at Pisa but decided we couldn’t be bothered negotiating a city just to see one landmark, especially as it will probably look exactly like its photos. As we were driving to our camping spot (a freebie on the Italian equivalent of the France Passion scheme) I said to Gus that the landscape reminded me of photos I’d seen of Tuscany. He said “Well where is Tuscany?”. So I looked it up and we were right in it – well spotted that tourist! My only excuses are that they spell it Toscana here; and we were navigating by town names rather than areas – I guess a tourist in Napier may not realise they were also in Hawkes Bay?? Anyway the landscape is very Tuscany – lots of rolling tanned hills with big houses on top, and cedar lined driveways, also many olive groves and vineyards. There are lots of road signs about snow, we can’t believe it snows here, it is SO hot!
This morning I woke up to a revelation – we don’t have to go to Rome if we don’t want to. We have been heading that way, luckily only yesterday but realised we were both rather dreading it. The farming couple we talked to had just been there and they made it sound pretty awful with the heat which is already bad enough, and the crowds – more an endurance test than enjoyment. Also we really would be pushing for time by the time we drove down there and back up to Bologna for our flight to Malta. One day we really do want to go to Rome – but we’ll make it a cooler time of year, and perhaps fly in and join a tour group, or hire a car to do the Amalfi Coast at the same time... one day.
Anyway with that decision we both feel much relieved and have decided to check out Florence instead and then head inland to Umbria and possibly across to the east coast – quieter places where the pace of life may suit us better – still plenty to see I’m sure. So after only 1 ½ hour’s drive we are at a lovely shady campground outside Florence. Gus is hard at it – and I’m writing up the blog – tomorrow we’ll see Florence.
No comments:
Post a Comment